Differential, transmissions from the engine to the axle transfer the power so a truck will move forward. In the policollo differential, there are clutch to distribute torque to both wheels, which increases the traction by allowing the opposite wheel to pull if someone is just spinning. They may be damaged or damaged, which require reconstruction.
Diagnosing the differential
Check the difference to determine whether it needs maintenance. Would you like to decide whether it is time to tear the gap, and there are some ways to decide whether tear is needed.
Set the truck on a lift, or jack both rear wheels so that they can be rotated by hand. Make sure that if you use a jack, the vehicle is supported, use a solid block or jack stand designed for this purpose.
Check the inter lubricant. Remove the filler plug, and use a clean screwdriver or other thin object to dip inside the gap to examine the fluid level. If the fluid is very low, continue with other clinical steps before filling it, because a tear will be required below and replenishing the difference, and any gear oil you have added will be discarded soon.
Go to a rear tire with a truck in the gear or park, and rock it back and forth, which are listening for noise, which indicate loose metal parts or grinding. Before the opposite wheel is turned on, the tire should walk a few inches independently. If one of the clutch pack has failed, then the parts of the metal grinding will be the noise when the wheel is turned on. Bearings and shim can also generate noise if they are adequately poor or damaged.
Shake the wheel in the side, then look up and down to see if there is a loose speed. If there is, an axle effect has failed, and will need to separate the gap for a repair.
Inspect pinion flange and driveshift coupling. Vibration and noise can be caused by a universal joint or pinion gear bearing failure while driving. Feel down from the bottom of the truck, with the vehicle out of the gear, moving the drive forward and backward, and listen to the sound or loose play in universal joints. From the tail end of the drive shaft, any noise generated by the pinion assembly rotating manually should be easy to detect.
Truck carried road test. Reduce the truck to the ground, and prepare for the road test. You will want to explore a detailed, flat, smooth area to test the vehicle: a large, empty parking spot will be ideal. Run the truck slowly on the entire pavement, causing sharp turns on the left and right sides, while listening through the open window for loud noise. Because the wheels turn at different speeds on a tight radius, this extreme turn can cause a signal indicating a problem.
If you have fixed a condition then proceed to the next steps, you will need to maintain your distinction. Otherwise, close the gear oil with a mixture of 75w90 gear oil and friction modifier and keep the truck running as you normally do, paying attention to any sound coming from the back end while driving.
Preparing to disassemble the rear end
Support the truck with jack and jack stand. You have to lift the back wheels as much as you have room to work under it. Make sure the emergency brakes are in good working order and if possible, do this work on the concrete driveway or garage or on the store floor. If you have to work on dirt or grass, then it is a good idea to lay a plastic sheet and then place two sheets of plywood under the truck so that some parts do not have to be lost while working.
If differentiated, take oil drain pan or other containers to hold different lubricants. You will also want a lot of clean rags or paper towels on hand.
Borrow or buy an inter-tube adjustment wrench so that the preload adjuster reverses. If you are not getting one, you will not be able to remove the carrier and separate the difference. At the end of 1 inch (2.5 cm) steel tubing at 30 inch (76.2 cm) long piece, welding 1½ inch nut can be made and grinding the flats downwards to 1¼ inches.
Collect wings including 12 mm, 13 mm mm, 15 mm, 17 mm and a 5/16 inch (0.8 cm) box end wrench, as well as a pair of locking pliers, such as a pre bar, and vice-grips. It helps in having a workspace with a solid wood surface, a benchwheel, and an effect puller, as well as the accompanying. To remove the race with the spindle and the difference, you get a heavy (3 or 4 pounds) hammer and 1. The length of the meter steel pipe will be required.
Detect and value the list of full parts. You can wait until tears come down, but since some parts will require special order, it is better to find them before starting real reconstruction, if practical. For a complete rebuilding, you will need:
Pivot bearings and seals
Clutch and clutch retaining clips
Cross bearings and races
Pinion bearing, crush sleeve and seal
3 quarters 75w90 gear oil and 4 ounce polymorphic abrasion modifier
Remove the drive shaft from the pinion flange. There should be four bolts that require 15 mm socket or wrench, holding it in place. You will need to allow the drive shaft to fall in front of the truck, then the rear end can be rotated out of your way. Make sure you keep track of the bolts you’ve deleted.
Remove pineapple walnuts. When you loose it, you may need to lock the emergency brake to prevent pinion gear from rolling. To remove the nut, you will need a 1¼ inch socket and a breaker bar.
Drag the pinion flange from the pinion gear spleen and set it on a clean surface, then remove the pinion oil seal and outer pinion effect. A screwdriver or small pri bar can be used to take out the oil seal.
Remove the gap cover. The bolts fastening the cover in place are 13 mm (, inches), and they should have two tags, to identify the gearbox ratio and assembly information. When all the bolts are removed, place a large oil drain pan under the gap cover, then close the cover slowly and carefully. When the cover gasket is freed from the adhesive, the oil will come in the grip.
Inspect Differential Carrier. You may want to use an engine spoiler spray or mineral spirits to clear the gap carrier after the oil flows. Now you will be able to see behind the spider gear set, the reverse pin, ring gear and pinion gear. If you look closely, you can also see the clutch behind the axle and gear. Look in the remaining oil in the bottom of the difference for the parts of the metal parts or the residue, and on the magnet located in the bottom bottom of the accumulated parts / metal residues.
Rotate the carrier until you see the wrist pin lock bolt. It will have 5/16 heads and will be located on the right side of one end of the pin. Turn the lock pin upside down until it is free from its thread and then pull it out. Only the shoulder of the pin is threaded, the rest of the wrist pin slides through the lock lock.
Push the wrist pin from its hole until it is out of the ends of the axles. Make sure it is rotated so that there is enough space to slide the spindle bolt to a sufficient distance to remove it without pinion gear or interlocking it. If the pin of the wrist is pushed too far, then the spider can get out of the gear carrier. This is not really desirable at this point, but if they do, then just collect them and their shimmers and keep them in a safe, clean place.
Remove lock clips (horseshoe-shaped clips on the inside edge of axles) by sliding the axles towards the center of the gap, and then rotating them. Ensure that you have released your emergency breaks. You may want to remove the wheels and the brake drum to lighten the axis assemblies, although this is not absolutely necessary.
Pull axle with axle tubes. They will be coated with gear oil, so set them on a clean, level surface to be ready for re-installation later. You can observe axle bearings and seal once you have removed axle, but this is optional, and not part of differential reconstruction. However, if you have doubts about wear and tear on these parts, then now it is time to deal with them.
Place the wrist pin in the center of the carrier, and thread the locking pin back into the hole to prevent the wrist pin from slipping again. This pivot will keep the end gear and spider assembly together when the carrier is thrown out of the differential housing.
Remove the locking clip from each of the carrier-bearing support caps. They are located in the center of each cap, and it will require 12 mm wrench. They do not need to be completely removed, but only loose so that the internal pre-loading nuts can be rotated. However, adoption of all these methods will make cleaning of these parts a little easier.
Slide the preloading nut tool through each Axle tube and attach the nut to the end of the axle tube adjacent to the inter-housing. You will rotate these counter-clockwise until the bearings are free, about 3 to 4 of each change. If you are not going to take the time to set the back end later, then you need to count how far you take these nuts back so that they can come back in the same situation during re-evaluation.
Remove carrier bearing cap bolt. They bear bearings which in turn support the carrier, weighing around 50 pounds, so you want someone to help the carrier support when these bolts are removed. Place each carrier cap on its respective sides at different places with their bolt so that they can be re-installed as they came out.
These are cast iron clusters, in which there is a mechanism to fit one surface and one surface, and it should not be reversed.
Remove the carrier from differential housing. Place it on a clean rack and keep it in a work area or convenient place to make an effect / clutch replacement later. Now look at the ring and pinion gear for signs of significant damage, to determine whether their position will allow favorable results in rebuilding. If either severe damage to the teeth, or if the spider gear gets spoiled, it may be time to consider the complete replacement instead of reconstruction.
Remove pinion gear by tapping the threaded end with a soft face hammer. Assembly should slide out without too much trouble, but if heavy force is required, then use wooden blocks or other protective methods to avoid damaged end and spine damage.
Clean all the parts you’ve removed thoroughly. You want to be able to spill in bearings, axles and gears and to notice the mating surfaces for obvious signs of wear or wear before wearing. No serious damage to mechanized surfaces or gear teeth will be required to cover detail parts in this article.
Remove the wrist pin as you did in step 10, above. This will allow you to roll the spider gears from the carrier and remove the axle-end gears. When removing axle-end gears, put clutch plates and clips together. Fenced clutch plates come in an alternate order between the plated discs, and the clips are all in position. If there is no obvious damage to these parts, you can choose to re-establish them, but the replacement kits are available from many different sources.
Remove the carrier bearings from the carrier. An effect removal tool makes it easy: you simply slip half the tool on each side of the bearing, then set bolts, and tighten them with your thin edges so that the effect is away from the mating surfaces. You can close the bearings with a large cool chisel, rotate it and kill it in different places so that you can prevent it from going.
Remove the pinion bearing and races
Remove the crush sleeve from the pinion gear. It should slide smoothly, but a hammer and punch can be needed to lighten tapping. Set pinion gear on a flat, solid surface and tap or press the effect from the assembly.
Drive the pinion bearing race out of the inter assembly. You can use a section of steel pipes that fits through the back of the race, or have a solid strip, but make sure your equipment fits the square against the edge of the race, and the house Not on the part. Tapping with the hammer roaming in the race should bring you out of the house without too much trouble.
Flush differential house to remove oil and metal particles. To accomplish this, you can use engine distillers, or mineral spirits, but be careful because they are flammable. Use a container to catch the washout and fix it properly.
Inspect gear and bearings for wear and damaged surfaces. Since the gears are forged, then mechanical, non-contact surfaces may have construction flaws such as nicks, but the smooth faces of the gear should not have cracks, chips, or fading areas, which show evidence of over heating or binding.
Decide whether the important surfaces of pinion gear and shaft are suitable for reinstatement or not. If not, you can order a replacement (usually attached to the ring gear matching the same drive proportion as the original).
Reassembling the pinion gear
Establish a new race in the pinion house of your difference. If you do not have access to any installation tools, then you can use the old race as a driving tool when you tap the races in place, or use a very large socket that is slightly out of the race It is small. Tap the race around its perimeter by working in opposite direction and aligning with the mechanical surface of the house. If the race becomes closed-centric, it can also be bound or broken, so proceed with caution.
Install the effect on the pinion gear shaft, tap the internal races of the old effect or a portion of the smooth pipe, just tap it like the outside outer racer. Again, use care, because the roller bearing cage kills or bearings will damage the assembly itself. After each effect is established on its respective shaft, lubricate it with 75w90 gear oil.
Install the outer pinion shaft flange on the pinion shaft, then the washer, and finally the nut. Tighten the nut to hold the pinion assembly in place. If you have access to a wrench which will catch the edge to prevent it from turning, then you can tighten the assembly to compress the new crush sleeve (this requires between 380 and 410 ft-pounds So it is very difficult to set up. Crush sleeve with ordinary equipment). If not, you may have to wait until the carrier assembly is established to close the pinion at the place during tightening. Do not install oil seal on the pinion shaft until the last assembly (later).
Enough to tighten the pinion nut sufficiently to crush the sleeve. If you are using a torque wrench and torque multiplier, then use the above torque specs, otherwise, until then do not see two or three threads outside the pinion nut, as long as the edges facing the gear housing Outflank.
Turn back the pinion nut, from which pinion shaft can be rotated by hand. You will need to set the effect preload, it should be between 12 to 20 inches torque. This is the force needed to rotate the pinion gear, and it harms the bearings, (hence, pinion nut), the higher the preload torque. Setting a preload too will cause the bearings to be heated more, and will fail later, while whistling when the vehicle is running very loose.
Use an inch-pound torque wrench to adjust pinion effect preload. 15 inches (38.1 centimeters) -Toke range is usually sought, but a torque is allowed in the 12 to 20 inch-pound range.
Replacing the bearings and carrier assembly
Install new bearings on your carrier assembly. If you die a hydraulic press and the appropriate, you can press them in place, otherwise, you can tap on the bus using the same technique with pinching effect. Ensure that the taper carrier is set with large diameter towards the house.
Restore the old clutches (or new ones), keeping the C-clip in position as you slide the axle-end gears and clutch into position. Once they are in place, you must keep the carrier at a level position while setting up the spider’s gear and shim. Using a strong table with cloth to get the assembly can help.
Install spider gear. Make sure that shimmers (concave washers that fit between the spider gear and the smooth face of the house) are in a position because you twist the two gear against each other so that they trap with the axle end gear. When spider gears roam, they are aligned with the hole in the carrier, then you can restore the wrist pin.
Install the wrist pin, ensuring that the pin pin hole is on the carrier side with its respective hole, and align with it. Set the retaining pin in the hole and thread it to catch the spider gear at a short distance.
If you are going to reset the position of the gear, then paint the gear-marking on the ring surface of the metal gear. By not setting up the gear, the ring and pinion interface can be out of stand, as new bearings and wear can change the dynamics of contact with ring and pinion gear. Since you have preload references for gear assemblies, you can decide to take the chance to convert the carrier to its original state. – This choice is up to you.
Establish career in differential accommodation. Before you install the outer race, you want to face the sockets bearing the rest on the home floor. Otherwise, they will fall while it is being handled. Slide the race on the bearings, then push the carrier to the position.
Install carrier bearings on carrier bearings, and install bolts that hold them in place. If you are going to set the ring and pinion gear using the already mentioned gear marking paint, you will not need to tighten the bolt completely.
Using the internal axel tube wrench, turn these nuts back into the number you first closed. If the bearings are tightly fitted to allow the full number of turns on each side, then reduce each side to the equal amount so that they are near the same center as before. It would be unusual, but new bearings may be slightly wider than the original equipment.
Check the carrier to play side-to-side. If you can move the carrier from left to right and left to right, there is not enough preload on the assembly, so you will need to tighten preload adjusting nuts by going to the same amount from each side. When the carrier is set, the end play can be tolerated in small amounts.
Use a dial indicator to determine if the ring gear is changing correctly if you want to. This will tell you whether the ring gear or the carrier has been distorted, and, after the installation of the real-neck of the ring gear, you can use the dial indicator to measure the gear runout or distance from the side. Can travel.
If you are going to do this, to mark the gear contact pattern in the already applied gear marking paint, give the ring gear a full turn, then reverse a full turn. It will ensure that the pinion gear is set properly and its teeth properly attach ring gear correctly. You can use an online chart or a reference guide to compare the patterns of wear to determine if you’re approaching your gear correctly.
Behind the carrier, see if pinion gear teeth are flush with the ends of the ring gear teeth, or if you are not using gear marking paint to establish your position. If pinion gear teeth stick to the back of the ring gear teeth, then the crush sleeve is not tightly tight. If the pinion gear teeth do not reach the end of the ring gear, then the sleeve has been crushed very far and it has to be changed.
Write the torque again on the pinion shaft with the ring gear attached with the pinion gear. Preload on combined ring gear bearings and pinion gear bearings should be approximately 45 inches-pounds. If it is high, you can put the preload nuts slightly on the carrier, if it is low, then tighten them.
When you are setting the ring and pinion gear correctly and the adjustments are adjusted for pre-load specification, then restore the axles. If you do not harbor pinion nut to crush the sleeve, then do this To set the axle to lock the pinion gear shaft, then the pinion will fall back to the earlier steps to preload and set up the bearing. . Ring and pinion gear
Remove the lock pin from carrier wrist pin. To fit the groove at the end of each pin axle, slide the wrist pin outward to allow the axle to be sufficient enough for the axle retainer clip.
Slide the axle back into the carrier, fitting the spleen into axle and gears, and push through it so that clip grooves are beyond the inner edge of gears. If the clutch spines are not completely aligned, then you may have to fold the axle back and forth because you apply a constant pressure to get everything done properly. Do not tap Axel or bump, because it can warp or damage a thin clutch disc.
Restore the reinscharging pin to the reverse pin and the reserve pin and tighten it with snooze. Some people use thread locking compound on retaining pin but if you tighten it adequately, then it should not be needed.
Take the bearing caps for carrier bearings, then preload nuts retaining clips. Check torque specifications in the service manual for specific torque pounds for each bolt.
When you are satisfied with the set up and preload on career bearings, ring gear and pinion gear and bearings, clear the differential cover. Use a silicon gasket adhesive, and re-install the cover. Take the cover bolt evenly and allow the adhesive to be set.
Installing the pinion oil seal and final assembly
Remove pinion flange and nut. Install pinion shaft oil seal by tapping in place. To protect it during installation of pin seal, apply a little bit of grease on the rubber sealing surface.
Install pinion washer and walnut. To make sure that it does not return during the driving, use the red thread locking compound on pinion nut. Tighten the specified torque (80-90 ft-pounds), then make sure the assembly rotates on the previous preload setting.
Restore the drive shaft using fast locking compound on fastening bolt threads. Tighten them safely.
Fill the gap with 75w90 gear oil, add friction modifier between the first and second quarters of gear oil. Differential capacity is approximately 2⅔ quartile.
Remove the jack stand and take the vehicle back to the ground. Now you can see if your set up is correct or not. Grinding, roaring or other noise from the back end of the vehicle indicates a wrong gear set or preload. If you listen to them, lower the test drive and gather the gap to see the problems.
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